Bringing Naga traditional, eco-friendly weaves to the global stage

Kanili Kiho
Dimapur | November 7

Nagaland’s traditional weaves and eco-friendly textiles made their mark on the global stage once again, at the 19th edition of the ‘Celebrating North East India Festival’ in Istanbul, Turkey. Naga fashion designer, Bambi Kevichusa captured the audience’s interest with her collection of eco-friendly textiles, traditional weaves, and designs, bringing the state’s rich cultural heritage into the spotlight.

Kevichusa was one of 54 prominent participants from Northeast India at this landmark event organised by the North East Institute of Fashion Technology (NEIFT). Over the years, the festival has displayed the region’s heritage in global locations like Washington, DC, and Milan, Italy, and it continued this legacy in Istanbul this year.

The event was held in collaboration with the Consulate General of India in Istanbul and received support from the Indian Ministry of Textiles and various state governments from Northeast India, promoting the region’s tourism, textiles, and handicrafts sector to an international audience.

In a recent interview with The Morung Express, Kevichusa reflected on her experience, sharing her insights into eco-fashion and her passion for all things ‘Nagas.’

“It has been a wonderful experience and a privilege to represent ‘our people’ in a foreign country,” she says, now back with fond memories and inspired by the warmth of the Turkish people.

Her collection showcased timeless pieces made from sustainable, organic, and locally produced textiles from Nagaland. “While we are used to our own culture and fabrics, for them, it was something entirely new.”

“Being overjoyed is an understatement,” she adds, describing the enthusiastic response from both the public and the diplomatic fraternity. She incorporated Naga music into the fashion show, featuring the song Warrior’s Call by Colored Keys.

With over a decade in fashion, Kevichusa’s work has reached audiences in Hanoi, Vietnam, Paris, and across India, most recently at The Couture Chronicles in New Delhi on October 27, organised by Anant Samagam at Travancore Palace.

Despite her experience, the celebrated designer approaches each show not knowing how it would be received. “All I know is that I give my best effort. Sometimes I feel I could have done more, but I strive to the best of my ability and go ahead with it, really not knowing what to expect.”

Step toward eco-friendly textiles
Kevichusa’s commitment to pursue eco-friendly textiles stems from a concern for the planet. “The inspiration comes from the burden of seeing climate change affect our land and the world around us,” she says. “And really, it is for my son,” she continues. “I have a 16-year-old, and I want to keep this planet safe for his generation and the next.”

It also stems from her love for Naga traditional textiles which are naturally eco-friendly, as she observes that the Naga tradition is “much more advanced” in sustainability.

In this light, she says that to address climate change, “we need to go back to our roots,” especially as the planet faces environmental devastation. “I can’t just sit still and do nothing, so this is my humble way of contributing.”

Kevichusa pointed out that the fashion industry is one of the biggest contributors to environmental harm. “As designers, we have a responsibility, each one of us.” The fast-paced production cycles, synthetic dyes, petroleum-based fabrics, and plastic-based textiles—all are detrimental to the environment.

She emphasised the need for designers to carefully examine the materials they use. “We need to go back to using recycled or natural fibres and eco-friendly dyes. This is our contribution to stopping the damaging effects of climate change.”

Whenever the bridal designer exhibits her work outside Nagaland, she takes the opportunity seriously. “The Nagas have something unique to give to the world, and I want people to know more about us.” So, Kevichusa makes sure that she showcases only Naga textiles and rich motifs rather than her bridal designs, representing the Naga people through clothing and fashion.

Reflecting on her recent experience in Turkey, she recalls, “I was all by myself, even though the consul general is also Naga. I felt a big responsibility to represent our culture and people in a positive light.”

Sustainable fashion has future, though with challenge
Kevichusa believes that sustainable fashion has a promising future in Nagaland. “Our roots, our textiles, our colours are eco-friendly. This is something unique we can offer the world.”

However, one major challenge she faces is sourcing organic textiles. “It’s difficult to find weavers who work with organic textiles, because everybody is caught up with their own work,” she explains.

Finding these yarns remains a challenge, and there is limited handloom fabric, even as she admits that there have been many times when she felt like giving up. According to her, the local textiles made from loin and backstrap loom are not as durable for making clothes, so she uses fly shuttle loom fabrics. However, only a few weavers are producing these fabrics in eco-friendly fibres like silk and cotton, posing a hurdle for eco-friendly practices. 

Focus on originality, positive aspects
For aspiring designers aiming to make an impact, Kevichusa stresses the importance of originality. “Everyone has something unique to give to the world. You don’t need to copy others to make a mark, locally or globally. Be original, work consistently, and keep showing up. It is always a lot of hard work and sacrifices along the way, but if you’re good in your work, people will eventually find you.”

She urges Nagas to value their heritage and focus on the positive aspects of their culture. “We have so much artistic heritage and treasure within us,” she says, “and that is our unique gift to the world—not just in fashion, but in every sense as a people.”

“I think we often look at ourselves and say, ‘Oh we Nagas are like this and like that,’ speaking negatively about ourselves. We need to stop this. Instead, let’s start focusing on the positive things, pick those, and share them with the world.”

Source: https://www.morungexpress.com/bringing-nagalands-traditional-eco-friendly-weaves-to-global-stage