The ‘social fabric’ of Naga identity

January 22, 2022 179 Views No Comment

7th International Loin Loom Festival held

Morung Express News
Diezephe | January 22

Traditional Naga textiles woven on the loinloom are not just fashion statements, souvenirs for tourists or festive paraphernalia. Naga identity and heritage are deeply embedded in this ‘social fabric,’ and the need to preserve the indigenous loom as a cultural heritage has become a matter of utmost importance.

However, in contrast to the recognition of the craft, a ‘weavers and craft’s dialogue’ at Diezephe village on Friday underscored that there are deeper challenges to preserving this historic art. The dialogue was held as part of the 7th International Loin Loom Festival, organised by Exotic Echo at Diezephe Handicraft Village.

According to Nine, a weaver associated with Exotic Echo, access to state or central welfare schemes and other benefits have become increasingly difficult. While ignorance among the weavers was also cited as one of the reasons, she explained that the expenses incurred while travelling back and forth from Kohima and Diezephe to avail schemes or take part in exhibitions like the Hornbill Festival, exceed the money they make through sales. Similarly, Satoli, who has been weaving for the past 30 years, said that the weavers and crafters have been neglected when it comes to implementation of schemes.

Another point of concern that weavers raised during the dialogue was the difficulty in acquiring raw materials. In this connection, Vitono Gugu Haralu of Exotic Echo highlighted that most raw materials like yarn and dyes come from other states as there are hardly any cotton growers in Nagaland.

Emphasizing on the need to encourage traditional cotton growing, Haralu also pointed out that it would be inappropriate to market the products as ‘indigenous’ when the raw materials are imported from elsewhere. She also noted that the loinloom is facing a lot of competition from shuttle looms and printing machines which tend to make production faster but at the same time affects the quality of textile and dilutes Naga culture.

Representing the craft artisans, Velasuzo said that Diezephe was declared as Handicraft Village in 2001 and a common workshop was built for the artisans during that time. According to him, at least 80-90 percent of the people in the village are crafters and weavers, and the single workshop was not enough to accommodate everyone. Stating the need for another common workshop, he also pointed out that the Handicraft Village was also in dire need for a guest house for trainers and resource persons who often have to travel from Dimapur to conduct the daily trainings.

Addressing the gathering, Additional Director for Industries and Commerce Department Vitsutho Nyuthe, said that after agriculture, handicraft and handloom is the second largest income generating sector in India with over 31 lakh registered artisans. While highlighting that the Government of India has announced many welfare schemes for the sector, he acknowledged that in the past, there had been a lot of ‘political interference’ when it came to implementation of schemes in Nagaland.

Nyuthe further assured that the department would exert its right and get the schemes to its intended beneficiaries and called for accountability on the part of recipients.

Along these lines, Programme Officer and EE Asenla Walling highlighted some of the schemes and programmes for weavers and artisans while assuring that the department would try to reach out to every crafter or weaver household.

Walling also emphasised on the need to recognise craft and handloom as legitimate full-time jobs and introduce the same in schools and colleges.

During the programme, Tourist Officer Ruvusie Poji also spoke briefly on the role of tourism in the world of handloom and handicraft, Associate Partner at Sapient Wealth Kvulo Lorin spoke to the weavers on how to manage money through savings and other investments, while President Craft Council of Nagaland Neikhozoto Savino also addressed the gathering.

In closing, Haralu observed that a movement of trust building between the weavers and government departments was needed in order to move forward. She expressed hope that a new channel of communication and collaboration would emerge through the day’s dialogue so that the Naga textile and craft heritage can flourish.

Source: https://www.morungexpress.com/the-social-fabric-of-naga-identity