From small beginnings to fashion trailblazer: Anjali Harlalka

Kanili Kiho
Dimapur | December 6

With over three decades of experience in the Indian fashion industry, Anjali Harlalka, a pioneering figure, recently visited Nagaland as an invitee at the Prelude to the 25th Hornbill Festival on November 23 in Dimapur. She was felicitated for her contribution in fashion and aesthetics. The one-day cultural event, organised by the Forerunners in collaboration with the Tourism Department, Government of Nagaland, showcased the state’s rich heritage and contemporary talent.

Since the inception of Hurleysin 1983, Anjali Harlalka has made a mark in the fashion world, blending Western, Indian, and fusion styles with fabrics sourced from across India, including the Northeast. At a time when Indian women primarily relied on tailors for custom-stitched salwar kameez, Hurleys revolutionised the industry by introducing ready-made salwar kameez, changing the landscape of women’s fashion in India.

As a co-partner in Hurleys with her husband, her clothing line—Anjali Harlalka with Hurleys brand, gained widespread acclaim both in India and internationally, catering to Indian communities in the UK, USA, Canada, Saudi Arabia, Mauritius, New Zealand, Muscat, Dubai, to name a few. It broke every Indian retail store worldwide. “Each item cost about two and a half thousand rupees back then, which was considered expensive, and they sold out. That success encouraged us to go international,” she said, reflecting on her illustrious journey, during an interview with The Morung Express in Dimapur.

In 1994, Anjali was the only Indian designer chosen to showcase her creations at the Indian beauty pageant in the United States. 

Collaborating with top Bollywood celebrities like Madhuri Dixit, Sangeeta Bijlani, Kimi Katkar, Priyanka Chopra, Deepika Padukone, Lara Dutta, Bipasha Basu, Madhu Sapreetc, along with renowned photographers AtulKasbekar, JatinKampani and makeup artists, Hurleys’ designs became synonymous with ladies fashion wear in Indian Fashion industry.

Fashion for all
While her designs gained traction in urban cities, Anjali and her husband noticed that smaller towns still lacked access to essential fashion resources. To address this, she launched Hurleys Magazine in the early 90s. This publication aimed at guiding aspiring designers, tailors, and fashion educators with engaging content and stencil techniques. The magazine resonated deeply with its readers, creating a strong connection within the fashion and tailoring communities. 

This magazine is also responsible to open door for many models and actresses in the Bollywood and Indian fashion industry.
Although it ceased print with the rise of digital platforms, Anjali is open to exploring new avenues for its revival.

Beginnings
Born in Kolkata and raised in a small village in Odisha called Bhadrak, Anjali’s upbringing among the local community deeply influenced her creative journey. “Life in this rural setting was simple, yet challenging,” she recounted. She was familiar with mud houses and lived closely with the local Adivasi people. While she faced many struggles during her formative years, Anjali also learned from their traditions and resilience.

Her early exposure to the vibrant colours, textures, and handicrafts of the village sparked her interest in painting and design. Later on, she moved to Bangalore with her siblings by her parents and eventually settled in Mumbai after her marriage. “Transitioning into the fashion world was not easy, I faced numerous obstacles, from learning the intricacies of the industry to establishing myself as a designer.” However, her unwavering resolve, shaped by her rural roots, kept her going.

Anjali stands as a testament to the fact that no matter what you face in life, with determination and hard work, ‘anything is possible.’

Her artistic background as a painter helped her master the use of colours and fabrics to design clothes for women. She has worked with all kinds of fabrics, from knits, to jeans, silk, crepe to cotton etc.

Hurleys also made a mark in the 80s with its innovative 30-sinker knitwear fabric, dominating the Indian market. The concept of ladies T-shirts and leggings also began with Hurleys.

The company played a vital role in forming the Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI), which became a platform for connecting sellers, agents, and buyers across the country. Anjali’s contributions to the ladies fashion in India and with their contribution to exports earned her four Clothing Manufacturing Awards from the Garment Association of India. She also served as a mentor and judge at Mumbai’s top fashion institutes, sharing her knowledge and donating her extensive library and inventory to nurture future designers.

Northeast’s untapped talent
While admitting that initially, the Northeast of India was not on her radar, the fashion designer spoke of the region’s boundless potential across the creative sector.“There’s so much potential here—fabrics, woodwork, and craftsmanship. These need exposure. More people should experience what I have witnessed in Nagaland,” she noted.

Reflecting on the evolution of fashion, she remarked, “Today, fashion is individualistic—it’s about wearing your attitude. Earlier, trends dictated choices, but now people create their own trends, blending colours and styles they feel comfortable in. Influencers have made a significant impact on this shift.” She also praised the Naga women for their impeccable sense of fashion, describing them as “very well-dressed and in tune with trends.”

She thanked the Nagas for their warm hospitality and kindness extended to her during her first visit to Nagaland. She looks forward to attending the next edition of the Hornbill Festival with her family.

Anjali’s success extends beyond fashion to interior design, where her innovative designs have been featured as a backdrop in high-profile photo sessions, including the Femina Miss India beauty pageant and iconic Bollywood films like 3 Idiots, DilChahta Hai. Her works also appeared in the Australian Spa Magazine among many other publications. Her firm works on both commercial and individual projects, catering to general and high-end clients. Inspired by Nagaland’s untapped talent, she is eager to collaborate with local designers and artisans, promoting Naga fabrics and woodwork globally.“There’s immense potential here, and I can relate to the Naga aspirations with amy own story of a small-town girl. With the right guidance, success is within reach,” she expressed.

The seasoned designer hopes her story can inspire and push the creative boundaries in the state. She looks forward to showcase India’s rich and diverse heritage with focus on the Northeast region, empowering the next generation of designers and artisans.